Through 'Chicano grunge,' Sew Loka captures the spirit of Barrio Logan

The coronavirus has not been kind to plastic artists, especially those whose careers were taking off and who depend on visibility and word of mouth to earn a living.

Claudia Biezunski-Rodríguez is one of those artists. Since the pandemic, the Barrio Logan fashion designer has had to change the way she does business, moving away from tailoring and bespoke pieces and focusing on shirts, denim jackets and other ready-to-wear items.

She has also helped her community cope with the pandemic by hosting outdoor art shows. The latest is Art Crossing, which she has organized with Groundfloor Murals and debuts this weekend along Logan Avenue in Barrio Logan. The exhibition features paintings, sculptures, and other works by artists from the neighborhood and is intended to be “part traveling gallery and part outdoor art installation.” The exhibition, which can be seen until the end of February, begins at the end of Chicano Park and goes all the way to 26th Street.

Biezunski-Rodriguez moved to Barrio Logan from San Fernando, Los Angeles in 2010 and launched her brand, Sew Loka. The 35-year-old artist tells us about her passion for sewing and why she continues to help and feel passionate about her adopted hometown.

Q: How would you describe Sew Loka? A: Sew Loka is both a clothing brand and a sewing studio; it's also a creative space where I can quietly close my eyes and create design visions inside my head. All the clothing I create and remake is designed for comfort above all else, which is why I've labeled my aesthetic as Chicano grunge. Grunge is not only a music genre of the 90's, it's also a style and a way of life for me. Refashioned vintage t-shirts, distressed denim, oversized flannels, and worn Doc Martens are all part of the modern grunge aesthetic, and can easily be paired with any of the Sew Loka pieces I create.

Q: What made you decide to dedicate yourself to Sew Loka full time? A: I moved to San Diego with the intention of making sewing my life. I had just spent the first half of my twenties working for a big company and that left me with no goals, so I knew I couldn't go back to a job. Sewing was the only thing I was really good at and I knew I could use this skill to be successful in my new life. Growing up, I always remember watching my father be very enterprising and even sell pumpkins door to door one year for Halloween. I knew I could be like him and open a business and run it full time, but I made the rookie mistake of thinking it would be easy; it has not been. It has been an uphill battle from day one.

Q: How has the pandemic affected your business? A: During the first few months of closure, I stopped working on custom sewing and tailoring projects altogether, and immediately started making free masks for the community. I didn't charge anything for the masks, because I considered them a basic human need and I didn't want to take advantage of my community during a public health crisis. I wanted to show the people around me that I will always be an asset to them, even in the darkest of times.

But when the masks became available for purchase at all gas stations, I quickly realized that I had to do something different to keep my business going. I knew I couldn't rely on my old bespoke tailoring and sewing business model for much longer; the demand for my skills had literally disappeared overnight. But that's when I told my husband, “Screw it, let's make our own designs and sell them; the custom work is over”. Fortunately, our brand has been very well received by the community and has supported our store during this critical transition.

In as little as 90 days you could be approved for permanent disability through the Social Security Administration.… https://t.co/HxNh42GD3A

— Harris Advocates, LLC Wed Mar 18 13:44:47 +0000 2020

Q: What are some of the most popular items? A: Currently, our denim jackets and reworked vintage flannels suit us very well. I add patches, phrases, and images to the back of all these jackets and shirts, and people have responded so well to my Chicano-inspired messages and designs.

Q: What do you hope people learn or take away from the messages on your clothes? A: Some of the phrases I incorporate into my designs are Brown AF, Brown Queen, Morena, Chicana, and Sad Girl. When I decide to embroider the phrase Brown Queen on the front of a sweater, I know (and my client knows) that in certain environments, the phrase Brown Queen could be considered controversial and has the potential to make other people uncomfortable. But it seems fine to me; I have been made to feel uncomfortable all my life and I refuse to suppress my feelings or censor my creativity. I was always very afraid of being labeled as sad or shy or lonely, but now I proudly wear these scarlet letters as a badge of honor on my chest.

Q: Do you sew everything yourself or do you have a team? A: Right now, I sew and cut everything myself, and honestly, that's how I always want it to be. I know it's not the best business plan, but I don't care. The act of sewing gives me a purpose and that is invaluable to me. I want to be known as a creator who isn't afraid to get her hands dirty, which is why I will continue to sew whatever items I design. I have a small team that helps me with my online store, website, and social media, but other than that, it's just me and my husband who work here in the studio.

Q: How has the Logan neighborhood inspired your designs? A: Living in Barrio Logan is being inspired. Every time I walk down the block of Logan Avenue, I see something new and colorful and strange, and it keeps the right side of my brain flowing throughout the day. Living and creating so close to historic Chicano Park fills me with an intense creative energy that I haven't felt anywhere else in my life; it really feels like magic here.

Q: You take pride in being sustainable, can you explain what you do? A: When we create new clothes, we always use all the materials around us first; such as donated vintage fabrics, worn leather scraps, and recycled materials from previous projects. I'm tired of people seeing clothes and fabrics as disposable; it is a huge problem that has a terrible effect on our environment.

Q: What inspired you to organize Art Crossing? A: Artists and art shows have always been an important part of this community, but the pandemic has made it nearly impossible to host any kind of normal art gallery show. That's why we've partnered with up-and-coming local muralists Ground Floor Murals to create this new safe, socially distanced, self-guided art tour down Logan Avenue.

Q: Why is it important to show Barrio Logan artists now, during a pandemic? A: Many artists have been disproportionately affected by this pandemic and need our support now more than ever. We cannot take our local artists for granted, but must take care of them and encourage them to continue creating. The art that is created today will undoubtedly mark the future of tomorrow; I truly believe it and will always be here to support the local art scene in any way possible. They are my brothers and sisters and I love them.

Art Crossing will be open through February 28 on Logan Avenue in Barrio Logan. Find Sew Loka fashion at sewloka.com.