The singer -songwriter Aurora Beltrán, Alma Mater of the Tahúres Zurdos group, retains a nightgown of her mother, who died in 2005: «I have put it very scarce times, I keep it with all the love of the world because it maintains its essence.Although I was clean and saved in his drawer, I took it, smelled it and it was she.I also have some leather gloves that I gave him and those that I use them constantly, in fact, I never take them out of my bag, even if I don't put them.They are black, with a golden metal ornament on the dolls.His DNA remains intact there, it's as if she caught me with her hands.And also, a garnet necklace that uses enough.I have nothing from my father, he died when I was 19 years old and now I am 56.Only his photos of when they were young, who are together;I made a kind of altar where I put candles almost daily ».
Wrapped.This is how they make us feel those inherited garments of ours and that are part of what the Spanish designer Roberto Verino has called the 'emotional cabinets', an idea that touches us all the sensitive fiber for the sentimental involvement that entailsAnd that, in addition, he delves into a concept nothing in vogue in these moments of unfortunate consumption, of roperos full of shirts at 2 euros and jerseys full of balls to the first washing.Although we become more aware that it is essential to turn towards sustainable fashion.And that the most direct way to get it is precisely not to buy clothes.
Who else who least treasures garments with this added value.Verino also: «In my closet I keep many that have an emotional value for me and that I hope they go to the next generation.Some belong to significant collections or important moments of my professional career, such as certain jackets that I put in certain parades or store openings.But I also have others that are from my father and that I keep with love, especially a wool jacket of brown paintings that I put in winter when I go to the vineyards.I really like to walk around the lands with her because she is very hot and brings me closer to my father.It helps me to think what he would do on certain occasions, especially when I need to make important decisions ».
- The fact that we can continue using garments of our parents and grandparents is based on the fact that they were made with amazingly durable materials for what is seen today, right?
- Indeed, the durability of a garment has to do with two factors, the materials that are used and the quality of the preparation.How the garments are made is essential to endure the use, and for that the fashion offices are key because they accumulate the experience and know how to make many generations.This type of clothing is still done, but we are few brands that defend it.
- The corduroy of before has nothing to do with the one now, or the suede...Why are these materials now so little durable compared to those?
- It is a cost issue.These fabrics you speak still exist, even better.But now much cheaper versions are made, since the consumer has become accustomed to paying less and changing a lot.When the trend is imposed, the consumer often changes garments and that is why he does not want to pay high prices, although the cost is greater because the garments last much less.
Alfaro's 'grunge' shirt
Another example.The Albacete musician Fernando Alfaro (Chucho, Surfin 'Bichos) also has his' emotional closet': «When I was a young lady I liked wearing 'vintage' clothes of my grandfather and also my father.Specifically of my father I still have a flannel shirt of black and black paintings and a touch of blue, super cool.And also shelter!I already put it in post-punk era, and especially when the fashion 'grunge' »came.
But apart from shirts, dresses, family coats that we keep as a treasure and that once our parents and grandparents had to buy, we can also buy clothes that transcend us.Verino is committed to certain garments and fabrics with which we will not be wrong: «In my opinion, a closet must always have a complete suit, a 'blazer' that can be combined with more formal and sport garments and a good coat for thewinter and its 'tank' type version for halftime.The materials, natural or new generation, as long as they allow to be recycled ».In his latest collection, the designer is committed to essentialism: «Elegant silhouettes of simple and timeless cut intended to last a lifetime in our closet.The collection, which is distributed at several moments of the season, starts in spring with garments in whites, black and gray, to add sky blue drops, yellow...And as we approach summer, large color stamps ».
Superstition
Paula Ramírez, deputy director of the Museum of the Costume, considers that our closet "goes beyond the functional, is emotional, and is loaded with superstition.When I put my grandmother's garments or that are iconic for me, I feel reaffirmed and somehow surrounded.They are pieces that are treasured because they remember important moments of your life ».
And the next step is precisely to get those garments that we acquired with a vocation of permanence, they form some day part of the closet of our children, grandchildren, nephews...Verino would like his grandchildren to inherit an American who put himself in his first parade: «It is a made in Verín's workshop by women of the town that a few years ago did not know how to sew and that after much effort and determination they became magnificentHands, in ex officio people.That day, that American meant the materialization of a project and the beginning of the brand takeoff.I hope my grandchildren have been knowing that behind that garment is the work of her grandfather, the effort of many more people behind and the desire to create wealth in Verín, so that the people of my people did not have to go to work outside".
Una apuesta decidida por la 'ropa vieja'
It seems a fact that many designers are firmly betting on sustainable fashion, and for this they reinforce the idea that clothes have to last, against the ephemeral ones that seem to always be the proposals of the catwalks, with windows that come to change completelyone year to another.Verino himself emphasizes that it was mostly in the 90s and 2000 when fashion became "unbridled consumption"."Hence the 'need' to constantly create trends to supply a hungry consumer of novelty.But it was not always like that, fashions changed with socioeconomic and cultural cycles, not with the market.In our company we have never believed in that model and we have always defended classic closet garments.Now life asks us for pauses and both brands and consumer have understood it ».
In February of last year, the designer Adolfo Domínguez launched a campaign with the paradoxical title - to be a fashion brand - of 'old clothing'.They explained the concept: «How long does a season last?Who said the new was better?What to repeat is bad taste?What's wrong with old clothes?There are 30 years that seem new and others that are from last month and already seem from another era.If you keep working, keep putting it on.If you like something, repeat.If you love it, do not stop using it.Fall in love so much of what you are in your closet that you never leave it.Think more.You need less.Buy clothes today you want to wear tomorrow.Buy clothes that last more than fashions ».
And Domínguez asked one of his most faithful customers to lend him for this campaign some of the garments they acquired in his store 20, 30, 40 years ago.The model Luca Gajdus confesses that it can have up to 10 pairs of jeans, but only two: "I wear the same over and over again until pieces are made," he says.Among the participating clients of the campaign is Willy García- Calvo, which boasts a four decades suit.And the actress Benedicta Sánchez, 84, Goya to the actress revelation in 2020 for her role in 'what burns', which shows a dress bought in 2004 and still still putting.
Topics
Roberto Verino, Adolfo Domínguez, Verin, Moda